Our Made to Measure Leggings Class is an adventure into drafting a knit garment…and drafting for YOUR crotch. Here’s the deal, you take your measurements, do a couple simple calculations, and draft according to our instructions. This means your pattern won’t always look like a commercial pattern or even like some RTW leggings!
Leggings Fit Issues
The most common leggings fit issues that people encounter can be traced back to the proportion between their waist and thigh. Do you feel like leggings always have to stretch too tight over your thighs? It’s probably because you bought or made a pair that fit in the waist, but were too small in the thigh. Do you ever feel like your leggings are rolling down or ride down in the back or front? It might be because you made or bought a pair that fit your thighs, but are too loose in the waist area.
In our class, Zede drafts a pair of leggings for herself. She has a 6.5″ Total Rise Depth (this number is found by plugging your waist and thigh measurements into a calculation in the class). Some of our students have TRDs of 10″ or 11.5″- what a difference! This difference can make your draft look a bit different than the one pictured in the Made to Measure Leggings Class.
Here is Zede’s draft. It’s easy for us to give this piece of advice in her case. When she aligns the Dressmaker’s curve with her perpendicular rise lines, it meets the crotch point and lines up easily with the back rise line. But what if you are differently proportioned?
So, this brings me to my point: Align the Dressmaker’s Curve to the perpendicular draft lines on your draft, no matter how wide your thigh measurement is.
What if you have a waist measurement that is “small” compared to your “large” thigh measurement? I use quotes, because these words are totally arbitrary. They have nothing to do with dress/pant size and everything to do with proportion. Someone who wears a size 20 could have a similar crotch curve to Zede, who wears a size 2 or 4. But, if someone has proportions that are disparate with conventional fashion norms, they’re going to have a pattern that looks a bit different.
People with a larger difference between their thigh and waist measurements face the challenge of where to place the Dressmaker’s Curve when drafting. Because Zede has a relatively small TRD, that ruler fits in nicely.
Solution? Don’t try to rely on the Dressmaker’s Curve for your entire crotch curve. Your crotch curve will be straighter from the crotch point toward the center of the pattern piece. Depending on your Front and Back rise, you might have some more “straightness” on your vertical rise lines too. You want your curve to be snug to your crotch. When you make the curve too “slow” or gradual, you’ll have some extra fabric.
One of our members, Glenda, is in the “Large Thigh/Small Waist” boat. Don’t be afraid of a crotch curve that looks like this. You might think it seems severe, but what it does is accommodate your larger thigh circumference.
Glenda’s original line is too shallow. If you try to use the Dressmaker’s Curve to draw all the way from your crotch point up to your waist, you’ll end up with extra fabric in your crotch (not attractive). Concentrate on putting the curve close to those perpendicular lines. Don’t be afraid of some flatness in the crotch area. That’s literally what pants need to do down there in your nether region- travel parallel to the floor for a bit to accommodate your thigh.
So, really, almost everyone will have a similar curve in their crotch area. As long as you’ve measured properly to give yourself enough belly and bum room (Front and Back Rise), your stretchy fabric will go around your torso just fine. We give you credit for your entire thigh measurement in the class (there’s only 1/2″ of negative ease for the leg area), so your stretchy fabric will not distort around your thigh.
I can’t wait to see your leggings!
Purchase the Made to Measure Leggings Class here!