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Mallory brings a bunch of stretch lace trim into the shop to sell and play with. Zede and Mal start up a conversion about it which leads to Zede asking Mallory if she knows how to piece it together. Conversations at the shop can easily get sidelined and Mallory goes ahead and pieces the stretch lace before Zede’s instructions. Does she screw it up?!
Mallory’s Project and Stretch Lace Use
Mallory made the Diana Cardigan from Amy Barickman’s TheMagic Pattern Book and wanted a way to finish the hemline. The cardigan has a continuous curved hem that connects to the neckline and Mal thought the stretch lace trim would be a perfect way to finish the cardigan edges.
She overlapped the two edges of the trim aligning the scallops of the lace, both pieces were right side facing up towards her. She used a tiny zig zag stitch to secure the pieces together and trimmed the excess lace away from the stitching line on both the top and bottom pieces. This left a tiny raw edge on the outside of the lace, overall she was pleased.
What Would Zede Do?
So, how would Zede have pieced the lace? She would have done it the same way. She says if you want to avoid the raw edges left by the overlapping pieces you could fold the extra lace edge under and tiny zig zag the fold down. There is no need to sew the lace right sides together and then sew the seam allowances down, that would create too much bulk.
Mallory feels people have this apprehension to sew with stretch lace because they fear it will just get pushed down in the throat plate of their machine.
Zede agrees, that is a possibility when sewing with more delicate fabrics. These fabrics shouldn’t be feared, knowing how to take your time and testing can lead to successful sewing.
Stretch lace has these ready made holes so the fabric really isn’t getting pierced because there is nothing in the way of the needle. You rarely want to use a straight stitch because the lace is stretchy. Generally a small width zig zag (approx. 1.5mm) and a slightly longer length (Zede uses 2.5mm) than factory default which is generally 1.5mm works well.
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Always test first!
Mallory tested piecing her stretch lace without using stabilizer under her stitching and liked the results she got. Zede suggests testing both with and without stabilizer because depending on machine, lace type, how it’s made, how it’s woven and what needle you use the results can vary. Lace is a delicate fabric and Mal and Zede suggest using a small sharp needle like a 70 microtex or a 70 denim needle to stitch with.
To make your lace seams seem (pun intended) invisible they suggest using a thread that matches the color and sheen of the lace. Mallory used a polyester embroidery thread on her project. Embroidery thread is great because the color choices are endless and they come in shiny and matte sheen finishes.
Have you ever wanted an easy way out when finishing a knit garment, or just want to fancy up your sewing game? Be not afraid! Stretch Lace is easier than you think!
- Who is meaner according to youtube videos? Depending on the video some people comment Zede is and others think Mallory.
- Feet that Mal and Zede love and suggest everyone have some version of – edge joining, open toe appliqué, narrow zipper foot
~Affiliate Links to our Favorite Products~
- Amy Barickman’s TheMagic Pattern Book
- Schmetz Microtex Needles Size 70/10
- Schmetz Denim Needles Size 70/10
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