Never did I ever think a serger stitch would be the source of such joy, satisfaction…..and contention.
Zede has used the 3 thread narrow overlock (hereafter known as 3TN) for activewear, swimwear, underwear, or anything stretchy ever since she’s owned a serger- let’s say about 25 years– and Zede taught me to do the same since I was very young. We’ve spent years teaching people about how sergers work and how to use them effectively to create garments, but recently we’ve encountered a new phenomenon.
In this day and age- the early decades of the second millennium, CE- sewists on the internet are sometimes incredulous, resistant, or outright pissed off when we suggest using the 3TN for seaming stretchy fabrics. At first this baffled us, and it took us several months to figure out what the heck was going on.
While we are indeed certified sewing snobs, we’re also reflective teachers who constantly re-evaluate what we know. Zede has been sewing and making for a long time- long enough to know that things change. The techniques of 20 or 30 years ago might not work on the fabrics of today. But as you might have guessed, even though Zede is 65 years old, she’s super hip to new stuff. Shoot, she hosts a weekly podcast and does Aerial Arts 3-5 times per week. I’m trying to say that the woman is on top of most things- and we’ve found that the 3TN is still relevant, still useful, and still the best option for most activewear.
We made this video of Zede talking about the 3 Thread Narrow, and following the video is a further exploration of why the stitch is so controversial.
4 Thread Default
When people buy sergers from a big box store, they are threaded and set for a 4-thread overlock. This stitch is valid and useful for many things- but there’s more to your serger than the 4 thread stitch.
While the 4 thread overlock is the most stable of the overlock stitches, we actually don’t want a “stable” stitch for things like leggings and swimwear that require a lot of stretching. Note: “stable” is different than “secure”. The 3TN, when executed properly is secure. It doesn’t unravel randomly, it isn’t inherently harder to use than the 4 thread, and it’s not solely for finishing woven fabrics. The 3TN allows for the most stretch when seaming knits. We want this! We want our leggings and underwear fabrics to stretch as much as we please without the stitches popping- that’s why we don’t construct them with a straight stitch on a sewing machine. The less stable the stitch, the more stretch you get.
Self Taught Stitchers
Sewing of all types, especially garment sewing, has seen a resurgence in recent years, and many sewists are self-taught. This is amazing, and I love it, but I sometimes find there’s a generational “knowledge gap”.
What’s that mean? At the risk of sounding like a 28 year old fogey, I think that the online sewing world doesn’t have as many experienced voices as we need. There are YouTube videos and blogs galore from people who started sewing 2 years ago. That is fabulous and sharing a learning journey is valuable, but experience with a variety of garments, fitting different bodies, and using various techniques/machines is also valuable. Like I said at the beginning of this article, we are always learning and reflecting as well, and we won’t stop- but Zede definitely has something to offer that a less-experienced stitcher does not.
I think some people literally do not know that the 3TN exists at all (or any other serger stitch for that matter), and maybe I can’t blame them. I don’t know of a new, hip, on trend serging book. I know of several with fabulous 1980’s photography that have relevant, useful info, but they aren’t the sexiest publications (now I know what to pitch to my publisher).
Many Sergers are Hard to Thread
Alright, let’s pretend someone hears about the 3TN and decided to try it- lots of people have! They proceed to remove their left needle and stitch. Well, the 3TN is a different stitch than the default 4 thread their serger came with, and a surprising amount of people do not check their owner’s manual to see if different tensions or other settings are required to get a good stitch.
What’s a good stitch? It’s one that holds up when you stretch your seam apart or along the seam line. It’s one that doesn’t unravel- no seam you make should immediately unravel. If all 3 thread narrow overlock seams immediately unraveled, then the sewing industry wouldn’t call it a stitch. It’s not inherently bad, stop thinking that.
Problems People Have with the 3TN
I’ll separate these problems into two camps: Threading/Settings issues and Handling Issues
Firstly, you must thread and set your serger from a 3 Thread Narrow Overlock Stitch (I spelled it out there, because your serger manual isn’t hip to our #3TN hashtag). You must remove the left needle, thread in the proper order for your machine, and set the tensions, stitch width, and stitch length to the recommended settings in your manual. We use self-tensioning, self-threading Baby Locks, and we follow the Quick Reference Threading Guide. I get an awesome stitch every time. Do not keep the same settings as your 4 thread stitch. If you tried to construct a knit garment with a 3TN and your garment subsequently fell apart, you didn’t have the settings on your machine correct.
Handling stretchy fabrics is difficult for the new sewist, and using a serger can be difficult too. The problems we see with the 3TN is that people’s stitches will “fall off” the seam or they’ll have trouble with seam intersections. This can have to do with the quality of your serger and how good you are at “showing it who’s boss”.
If the blade on your serger is not sharp or the motor on your serger is not strong, the blade will push the bulk of your seam intersection the the left and cause it to go outside the range of your right needle. When serging, you should be constantly guiding your fabric toward the blade and removing drag by supporting the weight of your project. I think people are sometimes more successful with a 4 thread, because it can cover for this error. We do not recommend going back and reinforcing seams with a sewing machine, as is sometimes suggested online. However, if that’s your cup of tea- go ahead!
Solutions to 3TN Issues
Show that fabric who’s boss. Recognize the space-time gap between the serger cutting your fabric and the fabric actually being stitched. Constantly guide your fabric toward the needle and blade, and don’t allow the weight of your project to drag your fabric away from the stitch.
If you have trouble going over seam intersections, your serger may not have a very strong motor. That’s ok, let’s work with what we’ve got! You can clip away the seam allowance at a seam intersection (see the video above) so that the blade doesn’t have to cut through all of those layers. A four-way intersection can ask your machine to cut through 4-6 layers of fabric. This takes away any drag that a weak motor or dull blade could exert upon your fabric.
Thread properly. This seems like a no-brainer, but if a serger is intimidating to a sewist, then they may never have truly threaded it before. Get to know your machine, thread with your foot up (and in the correct order if you have a threading order), and use the proper settings for your machine.
Have fun and ask questions in The Self Sewn Wardrobe Group…and share this blog post 😉
Kim Magee says
March 31, 2018 at 12:44 PMThanks so much Mallory. I am only just beginning to explore other stitches than the 4 thread overlocking thanks so your podcast and blog. I am fairly new to using my overlocker and I have found the advice from you and Zede invaluable. I have learnt so much already from listening to your podcast! I must say though that it can sometimes be confusing when reading other articles online. I came across this one https://www.craftsy.com/sewing/article/what-does-this-serger-stitch-do/ which said not to use the 3 thread on seams which have a lot of strain. I’m glad you provided the examples of garments which you and Zede have successfully used the 3TN for such as leggings, underwear etc.Thanks again for all of your knowledgeable advice and tips, and for such a fun and inspiring podcast!
Shannon says
May 10, 2018 at 8:25 AMI just discovered your podcast and for that matter, the 3tn stitch. I have been practicing and still need to pick up stretch thread. I was wondering if there was a place you show a picture of what the stitch should look like, front and back? I feel like my tension may be too tight, but if I loosen it at all I get a ladder effect on the right side of the seam when slightly pulled. If there is a pic somewhere I missed, I apologize. I love learning from you two and have been enjoying your podcast. Just requested to join your FB group too, you have so much knowledge for me to soak up!!
Suzieinohio says
May 13, 2018 at 1:58 PMMy serger is about 20-25 years old. It is a high quality brand and still working well. But no where in it’s manual or other reference books that I own does it mention the three thread narrow. For settings, they recommend a range of settings, identical to what is recommended for 4 thread overlock. The suggested goal is a “balanced “ stitch. In light of that, any thoughts or suggestions??? Thanks!
Jen says
May 13, 2018 at 3:47 PMThank you for this. Truthfully, I swore off the #3TN after I made a dress for my girls and it fell apart in the wash… however, I have to say that if there’s a blog I have come to trust, it’s yours! If you say sew swim wear with a 3TN I’m willing to try it. I also sew on a baby lock (evolution). I also agree that there’s a lack of depth in the line up so to speak with online sewists. For example: those that don’t press. Eesh.. i learned from my Mom and pressing is like a religion to her! Anyway, thank you again for this food for thought!
Dianna Loftis says
May 14, 2018 at 2:12 AMAs a 67 year old, i have been sewing since i was 10 yrs old. I am always learning. Things have changed. That said, some thing don’t change. I can’t tell you where my car title and birth certificate is but i have all the manuals that came with each of my 6 machines. I still look at them for guidance. I use you tube and pinterest and read blogs. I buy sewing books. I also learn from the young women in my groups on face book. It has been a life long passion. Thank you for bringing this up because it rings so true.
Kate Mulderig says
May 27, 2018 at 12:33 PMZede & Mallory,
Such joy!! I just discovered your podcast through another superb podcast, “While She Naps”. On Wednesday, I drove from Lake Placid, NY to Buffalo, NY for three days to visit with my sons and grandchildren and crossed the entire state listening to as many episodes as possible–7 hours each way (your theme song is now stuck in my brain–in a nice way:)
My favorite episode: the three-thread narrow. I immediately came home yesterday and did some sample runs with it and then applied it to a knit top I just finished cutting out–I am now a convert; it will be the only seam that I use for all of my knits, swimsuits, athletic wear, and grandchildren’s clothes.
Thank you!
Best,
Kate M.
Orna Bennett says
August 17, 2018 at 5:48 AMHi, I’ve only found this article today, so hope it’s not too late to comment. You talk about 3TN for seam knits. What do you think of the 3TW wide, using the left needle instead of the right?
mallory donohue says
August 19, 2018 at 7:10 AMWe find the 3-thread wide to be a bit bulky for our purposes, and that the 3TN holds up to all the strain we put on our activewear- but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t try it out and see if it works well for you!
Marta says
September 6, 2018 at 2:33 PMThank you for the article, the video and a podcast, I’m inspired! But in my manual there is a number of 3 thread overlock stitches, and two of them are narrow and only use the right needle. They have different settings, but the main difference is one is done on a rolled hem setting (called exactly 3 thread narrow seam, and it’s about 2mm wide) with a stitch finger hidden and other is on the normal serger setting (3 thread overlock, 5-7mm). So which one do you mean?
Marnie says
November 4, 2018 at 10:05 AMI remain somewhat unconvinced by the conventional 3TN as being ideal for seams under pressure in leggings/leotards etc and instead use an alternative 3TN which no-one ever seems to mention, including you.
It retains both needles and uses the looper converter to use only the lower looper. It’s included in the stitch directory of my Juki overlocker and is specifically referred to them as the “superstretch” stitch.
It’s certainly very stretchy and also has that extra row of stitches for security if one rowshould pop. I’d be very interested to know if you’ve tried it and, if not, to hear your comparison after you have done.
mallory donohue says
November 4, 2018 at 1:13 PMAre you talking about flatlock seaming? That would also be great!
Bottom line, everyone has to use the stitch that works for them on their equipment.
Zede and I have made tons of activewear for ourselves that we wear while doing things like deep squats when weightlifting or Aerial silks work. We’ve also made lots of costumes using this stitch for other people, and some of them have literally lasted decades. That’s why we give this advice- because it works and has worked for so many projects for us. We’re not the first ones to recommend the 3TN, of course, but it seems like people get vehement when we suggest that a 3 thread stitch can be just as useful (or more useful) on knits as a 4 thread stitch. The key is that it’s durable, yet flexible.
If the stitch you use is durable and flexible, then it sounds like you’ve got it sorted!
Joanne says
February 23, 2019 at 1:42 PMI think the most important piece of information on using a 3 thread is not being heard by most sewists. You must use a 3 thread NARROW stitch.
I have been sewing for more than 50 years, bought my first serger 35 years ago, a 3 thread Singer, and 5 years later I bought a 4 thread Singer. I have also been making my granddaughters skating outfits and practice wear for about 10 years. I use my 4 thread serger on all the seams and then topstitch with a twin needle. I tried your method with the 3 thread narrow stitch and found that both have the same amount of stretch, but if a stitch pops on the 3 thread, there is no safety stitch. I make all my own undergarments and leggings and have never popped stitching with my 4 thread. I have popped stitches using my 3 thread though, when I have forgotten to set the serger for a narrow stitch.
Chrystal says
July 7, 2019 at 6:34 AMLove your podcasts…I have drawn so many parallels with Zede. Still have my Necchi which I learned on in 6th grade.
My BL serger is 30 years old and my go to stitch has always been the 3TN. The controversy continues to puzzle me.
PS. Please don’t dumb down the math. Your smart sewists get it. LOL
Jane says
January 20, 2020 at 1:08 PMRecently bought an overlocker (I’m from the UK). What a fantastic video. Really clear and helpful. I’m definitely going to give a three thread approach a try. It made so much sense.
Jane from Cardiff, Wales, UK
Lisa L says
March 25, 2020 at 12:41 PMI am wanting to make ties for face masks quickly! How should I sew ties? I am new to this- 3 stitch, 4 stitch, flat, rolled????? I just want to make quick and easy ties for these necessary masks for the hospitals.
Thank you
Lisa L